Breakfast this morning afforded me the opportunity to put to use my newly acquired pestle and mortar. It also needed to be hearty to sustain us through our blood donation. I decided on a Khmer staple breakfast: num banh chok.
Num banh chok is traditionally noodles with a fish and coconut curry sauce and an arbitrary selection of additions to pile on top. The recipe relies on white fish and prahok - a fermented fish paste. With a vegetarian version, I left out these ingredients and found that the flavour was still exceptional.
With none of the fresh rice noodles to hand, I made do with kuy teav noodles, which were semi-soft and not brittle despite being dried. Having pounded a paste of lemongrass, lime leaves, garlic, and galangal, I simmered this in coconut milk with palm sugar and soy sauce. The resulting sauce was poured over sliced silken tofu and the noodles, and served with sliced green beans, some painstakingly castrated banana blossom florets, fresh herbs (mint, Thai basil, sawtooth coriander), and limes. We were ready for the blood letting.
After a tuk-tuk brought us to the Jayavarman VII hospital, where we had seen last night's concert, we went through to the blood donation centre and were efficiently led through the process. The staff were friendly and the paperwork minimal, so in no time at all we were hooked up and giving 350ml of the red stuff. We were packed off with a thank-you bag and a smile. I would ask that anyone in Siem Reap, who can spare half an hour of their time, come to the hospital and make this very simple gift that goes such a long way.
The hospital is conveniently only a short distance from Angkor National Museum. Visiting the museum took us the best part of three hours and was a fascinating insight into Hinduism and the kings that built the various temples of Angkor. Artifacts from temples are presented and used to tell the mythology of the Hindu religion, although I remain confused over the transitions between Brahmanism, Hinduism, and Mahayana and Theravada Buddhism that occurred during and after the angkorian period. Also here are the 'stele' recovered from the Angkor sites which capture events and descriptions of the temples in extremely detailed Sanskrit script that has weathered very well for a stone slab.
Exiting the museum, we found two cafés (Blossom Café and Sister Srey) that we wanted to try both closed. We made a hot and circuitous route home, following some vague directions to a church that K wanted to visit, but which allowed us to sample some delicious smoothies at vegetarian restaurant Vitking House.
I cooled off with a mango and passion fruit blend, the tartness of the latter balancing the sweetness of the former. K went with a strangely moreish thick and sweet pumpkin shake. Looking at the rest of the menu, we will certainly return for some food soon.
We came home for a date with Skype and prepared our own evening meal using the banana blossom that was languishing in the fridge and threatening to turn completely brown.
While K prepared some of the fresh spring rolls we had learned at the cooking class, I started on the salad, dressing and dip. Fortunately, the result exceeded the expectations I had made when tasting the raw, bitter flower. Sliced into the salad with green beans and carrot and the standard dressing, it had the texture of leek and there wasn't a hint of bitterness. K's spring rolls were a triumph as well, although she wouldn't admit it.
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