Avenue of the Volcanoes

We awoke this morning to our host's father, César, knocking excitedly on the door to our room to alert us to the sight of the Cotopaxi volcano in the distance spewing ash into the blue sky. International press has been playing up that Quito has been in "a state of emergency" since the active volcano started to demonstrate significant signs of greater activity on Friday. The reality is that the areas around Cotopaxi are on "alerta amarilla" (yellow alert), the national park is closed to visitors, and only the closest settlements have been evacuated. I silently wondered whether the sudden burst of volcanic activity was in solidarity with the indigenous protestors currently marching the streets of Quito.

Cotopaxi gives off some ash

The natural event was unfortunately timed for us, however, as we had booked a day's train trip on the first section of Tren Ecuador's "Avenue of the Volcanoes" service - borrowing the name given to it by explorer Alexander von Humboldt. Passing between the two mountain ranges that flank Quito the train rumbles its way to Guayaquil over four days for those passengers that have the time. However, passing through 'volcano alley' entails a certain amount of risk, and today the usual route through El Boliche was curtailed by Cotopaxi's emissions.

Bolón de verde

Prior to boarding at Chimbacalle, we breakfasted at the station café on traditional Ecuadorian 'bolón de verde' (green plantain balls) stuffed with cheese. These may be so delicious as the plantain is fried until soft, filled and formed until a ball, before being fried for a second time.

Steam train

Sadly the train we boarded was not pulled by a steam engine, but a regular diesel. After chugging slowly through the southern outskirts of Quito and entering the cantón of Mejía, we shortly arrived at the way station Tambillo. This provided us the second opportunity of the journey to snack. We realised at this point that this excursion would probably be the most sedate thing we have done thus far in the trip.

Happy train

View from the train

Accordingly, we indulged in a few prestiños (fried batter pieces) with miel. Far from translating literally as 'honey' - which is more specifically referred to as miel de abeja (bee syrup) - miel can mean any kind of sweet syrup, such as corn syrup (miel de maíz), or in this case, brown sugar syrup (miel de panela).

Station crafts

The onward journey through the countryside of Ecuador revealed peaks rising on either side, communities clustered in the valleys between them and creeping dangerously up their slopes. Upon arrival in Machachi, we were greeted by a band who attempted to fire up the crowd on the square in front of the quaint station house. As many of the passengers were Ecuadorian, this wasn't perhaps as difficult a task as it would have been with a collection of reserved Britons, and the place was soon moving with the combined footwork of a several dozen people.

Machachi welcome

At Machachi, we had come as far as nature would allow us today. The afternoon's activities revealed themselves to be as gentle as the journey here, with a visit to a tambo - a coach house for use by passing travellers - and a granja - a farm or homestead.

The house, much of which is original, is now occupied by the fifth generation descendants of the original owner. The interior is full of period furniture, antiquated kitchen and dining equipment, and a pair of working phonographs. Among the rooms is a slightly unsettling collection of dolls bought by the husband of one of the earlier owners for his 14-year-old bride.

Not weird or creepy

On the farm was a varied collection of animals, more for show than for any other reason. A pair of tiny horses share space with a number of domesticated camelids - alpacas and lamas - and a ram.

A little horse

A friendly alpaca

The avian selection was just as broad, with hungry, hungry emus, a duck with a curious mop of hair like a toupee, and even a small flower whose leaves resemble a hummingbird.

Feeding time

Donald Trump Duck

Nature gets confused

A selection of different kinds of rabbits housed one enormous and fluffy angora bunny.

Fluffy bunny

Lunch at the farm, as befits the image of the 'granjero', was simple but nutritious, comprising soup, followed by two kinds of starch - as is the Andean wont - of fried rice and potatoes with omelette. A piece of tres leches cake was a small indulgence.

The usual return by bus to Quito - as the train wends its way on to Guayaquil - was made today instead by the engine and its carriages returning to its point of origin. This gave us the perspective of arriving back into the breeze block suburbs of the city out of the rolling greenness with its jagged peaks. Unusually, the local residents greeted us as though we were royalty, leaving their homes or breaking from games of football to wave as the train rumbled past, adults waving with as much fervour as the children next to them.