Heart of the Nation

Canberra - the capital of Australia in, aptly, the Australian Capital Territory - only came into being in 1913, twelve years after federation, and was constructed following designs selected as part of a competition. As such, it looks much different to other, more organic, Australian cities. The layout is geometric, while billboards, pubs and service stations are prohibited on main roads. These wide, featureless boulevards, coupled with the relatively small amount of traffic, give the impression of a well-appointed ghost town.

Meanwhile, in suburbia, we enjoyed a well-spread family breakfast table, groaning under yoghurts, fruits, toasts and jams, with good coffee from Lonsdale roastery. With a contingent of British around the table, the time-honoured competition between Vegemite and Marmite was played out, to no particularly convincing conclusion. Amusingly, Marmite is branded as "Our Mate" here, as someone else already has the name trademarked.

#Kraft

Being in the capital, we paid a visit to the seat of Government at the Parliament building and the House of Representatives. The building was opened in 1988, designed by New York-based architects, and replaced the previous parliament building. It is largely buried under Capital Hill, the grass on its roof making it unobtrusively blend into the surroundings, but is topped by a huge flagstaff, signalling its location.

Heart of ACT

The inside of the Senate follows the usual horseshoe layout of such rooms, complete with leather upholstery, and apparently emulates the UK House of Lords and its red colour scheme. To the eye, however, the palette seems to err on the pinky salmon end of the spectrum, even going to far as to have pale red Emergency Exit signs.

The Pink Room

We drove down to Parliament square, on the edge of the enormous Lake Burley Griffin that sits at the centre of Canberra and watched the cyclists go by with plastic cable ties affixed to their helmets to deter the overly aggressive seagulls.

The Birds

At the craft and food market, we grazed our way round the nibbles on sale, enjoying the sudden availability of olives, cheese, and other delectables. Soon, we had to admit that proper sustenance was required.

Our hosts took us to Brodburger - a very popular food van that expanded into a very popular restaurant. There was a 45-minute wait and no available seating, so we took our food and ourselves to the park.

Food coma

K and I enjoyed the 'Brodveg', stacks of roasted vegetables - courgette, pepper - and a monstrous amount of halloumi seasoned with spicy mayonnaise. This came with an embarrassment of fries that we failed to finish, but was delicious.

Having seen only deceased kangaroos on the side of the road thus far (5 in total), our host took us to nearby Tidbinbilla nature reserve. However, the promise of inevitable kangaroo sightings was initially unfulfilled.

Undefeated, we took a pleasant walk in the gum trees, whoch were shredding their bark like thick stringy skin, and observed only caged lizards.

Soon, however, the full panoply of the reserve's fauna revealed itself and we saw multiple kangaroos, 'wallaroos', brush-tailed rock wallabies, a cuckaburrah, several dopey koalas, a black swan, and a platypus (one live briefly and another, stuffed, held by the ranger).

Natalie Portman

Quokka's poor cousin

Sitting in an old gum tree

Finally...

We toasted our successful safari with pizza and beers, including representatives from the mainstream end of the Oz craft scene, including Little Creatures pale ale, James Squires 150 lashes, and (slightly more off-piste) Feral Hop Hog.

All hail the ale that's pale