Top of the Island at Tapotupotu

Our destination today was the most northerly point of the North Island: Cape Reinga. Firstly, we had to make our way through the Waipoua forest on SH12. But before that, we had to have breakfast. Muesli was the easiest thing to fuel us for the day, but I was already bored of this (and missing our varied diet in SE Asia) and vowed that we would ring the changes once in a while - even if we are  living in a van.

Booooriiing

Yesterday we had learned of the kauri logging that decimated the number of these trees, considered sacred by the Maori. One of the few remaining 'greats' is Tane Mahuta (meaning "Lord of the Forest"), one of the largest kauri (by volume of millable timber) in the Waipoua forest, standing at over 17m tall and nearly 14m around its trunk. It is an impressive sight.

Tane Mahuta

The journey through the Waipoua forest was our first experience of the tight windy roads that NZ has in spades. It took slightly longer than anticipated to cover the distance, which made us nervous of the schedule we had set ourselves for the coming weeks.

Fortunately, the hilly route rewarded is with spectacular views, such as the beauty spot overlooking Opponini and Hokianga bay, where the light glistened on the blue water and was framed by the dunes in the distance.

Hokianga Bay

At the bay, we took a very small ferry across to Kohukohu, where we rejoined the SH1, travelling through Kaitaia on windy mountain roads. We passed through places that look as though they haven't changed since settlement - white wooden houses surrounded by cows and fields.

The drive to the tip of Northland is long, so we stopped for coffee and cake at the rather unfortunately named Pukenui. This area of the country is subtropical and hence much warmer even at this time of year.

Carrot cake - the first of many

Pulling off the highway, we made our way down a steep gravel path that descended to the DOC (Department of Conservation) Taputoputo campground. The DOC campsites are basic and cheap, and often remote, but tend to be situated in places of natural beauty. This campsite is directly on the beach, in a bay surrounded by hills in Cape Reinga. Reinga means death in Maori, and this region is a sacred area, where the spirits come to leave for their spiritual home, Hawaii.

After the long drive, we arrived late and the light would soon fade. There are many long walks that can be done from this location, including one all the way to the northernmost lighthouse, but we had only time for a short climb up the hill to start along the trail, before turning back.

After the walk, I rather lazily watched K do yoga and pilates on the beach, while drinking a beer (me not her), before we both turned our attention to dinner. We cooked out of the back of the van for first time, which involved some spluttering of hot oil into my face, as the unit puts the single hob at head height. Fortuitously avoiding a rather lengthy trip to the nearest hospital, we settled in for food.

Camper van cuisine

Darkness descended around 8pm and the campsite offered no light save the moon, cold outdoor showers, and a couple of 'long drop' toilets. It was great. No, honestly.