Cook Strait Part 1: Windy Wellington to Peaceful Picton

An early and slightly chilly rise this morning saw us eating the usual staple (muesli and banana) among a paddock of sheep. The sheep were oddly fearful of humans given that they share their living space with campers for much of the year, and bolted if we made any sudden movements.

After breakfast, we took a short 3.5km loop trek up to the summit of Battle Hill. The walk up was exposed and the wind strong, but afforded us a stunning view.

View from Battle Hill

In 1846, Battle Hill was the scene of a skirmish between colonial forces, aided by allied Maori, against a few hundred Maori resistant to European colonisation. The engagement resulted in no clear winner, but there was little further resistance to subsequent colonial land grabbing in the region.

We proceeded a more sane route than yesterday's knuckle-whitening rollercoaster ride the short distance down to Wellington to catch the 13:30 Bluebridge ferry to Picton on the South Island. Arriving early, we parked up and took a stroll into town.

Given that the facilities at our lodgings last night didn't extend to a shower (hot or cold), K requested a quick stop to freshen up. Fortunately, the antiquated-looking Wellington Hotel, opposite the ferry terminal, obliged for a nominal $3 per person.

Judging from today's expedition, Wellington is a windy city, presumably owing to its exposed location. We were blown into the centre and paid a visit to the Wellington Chocolate Factory to buy each other a small gift for Easter. Tucked away down an unassuming side alley past a "nudey bar", the 'factory' lived up to its name, with workers at small stations turning out perfectly formed morsels and turning the air a tantalising scent of chocolate.

We breezed through the rest of the city, safe in the knowledge that we will be returning for a proper investigation in a few weeks' time. The architecture bears the same hallmarks as other 'new world' settlements, in which progress has outstripped the purposes of the original buildings in a little over 150 years. Typical of this is the grand and prominent New Zealand Bank building, whose new occupant now slings fast food to the public.

Progress

We boarded the 'Straitsman' ferry and hunkered down for the 3.5 hour crossing. As is de rigeur for boat journeys, we indulged in horribly unhealthy food available on board: chips, a cheese scone, and chocolate biscuits.

The van's Big Adventure

On the ferry deck leaving Wellington bay, the wind was as fierce as in the town itself. However, once we had crossed the open waters of Cook Strait and entered the fragmented land of Marlborough Sounds, the breeze suddenly dropped and we made a graceful approach into Picton through the stunning rolling green hills of Queen Charlotte Sound.

Picton, ho!

Exiting the ferry at 17:30, we didn't have long before sunset, but we chased the retreating back of the light down the SH1, and along Rapaura Road, through our first glimpses of the rugged South Island terrain, but skirting along the flat Marlborough plains, which are home to acres of vineyards.

Alfred Stream

Continuing up the SH6 as far as Rai Valley, we pulled off into Alfred Stream picnic area. This was free to camp, had a simple toilet, but offered a spectacular setting of hills and cows to accompany us.

View from inside the van

K offered to cook tonight, but given the late hour and dwindling light, we agreed that she would just open the tin of pumpkin soup we had acquired, which we ate with Vogel's bread.