Cook Strait Part 2: Picturesque Picton to the Crafty Capital

An early morning was called for today, as we had to get to the Picton ferry terminal in time for a 7am check-in. This was probably an unwise decision after a day spent wine tasting yesterday, but everyone was up and bright-eyed for the short trip from Blenheim to Picton. The sun rose as we drove, illuminating the few clouds on the horizon.

Farewell Picton

The Queen Charlotte sound was as magnificent in the morning sunshine as it was on the inbound journey. I repaired below deck for morning fuel.

Marlborough Sounds

A frankly unnecessarily enormous breakfast far surpassed what I remember from teenage trips to France on the Dover-Calais ferry, and left us fat and happy for the next couple of hours until we docked in Wellington.

Ferry breakfast

Disappointingly, contrary to what the name and the documentary, "Lord of the Rings", suggest, Auck-land is not a land populated by orcs. However, Wellington is.

Orc smash

Having parked up at what is essentially a glorified carpark directly opposite the ferry terminal, where we would spend the next two nights, we immediately made our way to the Weta Cave in nearby Miramar, where we were greeted by trolls.

Where the magic happens

Weta are the film effects outfit that created the spectacular visuals in the Lord of the Rings and Hobbit trilogies. Besides the large amount of computer-generated imagery that these films required, all of the buildings, non-human characters, costumes and props start life as a physical model that was manufactured in the tiny Weta Workshop.

Trolling

Our guide, Matt, who comes from South Africa and has a dry wit and does an impressive Scottish accent, led us through the workshop, describing the processes and showing us designs and models from the films Weta has worked on. As well as working closely with Peter Jackson from an early stage in his career, Weta has contributed visuals for many other films, including Avatar and King Kong.

My precious

In the age of digital effects, I was heartened to see just how much is created hands-on, and how many effects are still created 'in camera' using miniatures (or 'bigatures' owing to their scale). As well as traditional design and manufacture, the team of artists use any medium at their disposal to get the job done, from clay, silicone, polyurethane, steel, aluminium, expanding foam, to CNC milling and 3D printing. One group spent two years 'knitting' chainmaille by hand for LotR, wearing their fingerprints away in the process. There was a real passion evident in everything produced from the workshop.

Back in central Wellington, we strolled along the waterfront and popped into the Museum of City and Sea. This outlined the history of Wellington from the arrival of European settlers, which, owing to its location, is inextricably tied to the sea. To be honest, the last two centuries of the city saw it face similar trials and tribulations to Britain, as it was not immune from the effects of war, recession, and wrestled with universal issues of sexual and racial (in)equality. Container shipping changed the aesthetic face of the harbour, but brought much needed wealth into the capital. However, as with many settlements that were eager to grow rapidly, its heritage was recognised all too late and many of the old buildings and tramways have been sacrificed to the needs of rapid population expansion, big business, and the motorcar.

"Windy" Wellington was altogether less blustery than on our previous visit, when heading south, so we continued our walk through town. Our first choice of venue, an idiosyncratic bar called Alice that serves its cocktails in teacups, was sadly closed. We diverted to The Malt House for what could be the best selection of beer on tap and in bottle in Wellington and possibly NZ.

Choice paralysis

I supped a seriously good imperial red ale - BloodyDingo from local brewery ParrotDog - and declared that we had found another contender for the dream team ''dog" collaboration, which so far comprises BrewDog (UK), Moon Dog (AUS), Flying Dog (USA), and now ParrotDog (NZ). #MakeItHappen.

Fuel was required after our aperitif, and the aptly named Burgerfuel provided just the ticket. Infinitely customisable burgers, including several vegetarian options, awaited us and pleased all palates in the group. I enjoyed the V-twin Vege - a mushroom, kumara, chickpea, and basil pattie with cheddar and plum sauce. The superb invention of a "doofer" - a folded cardboard burger holder - stopped the filling from falling out of the bun. Why do these not exist in other countries?

Fuel me, Seymour

Before heading home to take in the first of the LotR films in homage to our visit to Weta today, there was just time and stamina enough remaining for a drink at Wellington institution Hashigo Zake. Downstairs, we found a pseudo-Japanese decorated bar with a good selection of beers, many of which were imported bottles from Belgium and USA, but The Malt House still reigned in our affections.