Full House

The communal breakfast table was full this morning, as all rooms of the small hostel are occupied. We swapped travel stories and plans with those present, many of whom were anticipating travelling over the border to Bolivia. However, this journey, as well as some trips to natural phenomena within Chile, require travelling through a pass at around 4000m elevation. For the last few days, this pass has been closed owing to snow and ice.

Today, the sun beat down with an intensity that made us incredulous that snow could persist anywhere in the region, even at such altitude. Indeed, the white covering of the mountains seems to be abating and, according to all reports, the pass over the mountains is open again.

We raided the artisan shops we had seen yesterday. Each shop is seemingly attended by a Atacameña and a child under the age of one in a pushchair in the corner. Far more than anywhere we have been thus far, the handiwork is tempting, especially since much is tailored to combat the cold weather experienced at either end of the day. We came away with jumpers and scarves that seemed ridiculous as we heaved the bags sweating in the midday desert heat.

After the spending spree, which went far beyond budget, we settled on a relatively cheap menú del día at vegetarian café La Estrella Negra. We were presented with a magnificently tasty and filling hamburguesa de soya with papas doradas.

Soya burger

Soya was again on the menu in the evening, as K concocted a flavoursome vegetarian 'bolognese' sauce to top off a bowl of pasta.

As at breakfast, so at dinner, as our meal coincided with those of other people in the hostel. We sank a fair amount of good Chilean Camenere and chatted with the fine folks. This has to be the friendliest place we have stayed.