Knock, Knock. Who's There? No Bodies

San Pedro is home to a small museum covering the history of life in the Atacama desert, which was set up by a Belgian priest Gustavo Le Paige. Having been sent over to Chile to help another priest, only to discover that he had died several months previously (presumably why they thought he might need help), Le Paige eventually settled into a pastoral role in San Pedro.

Le Paige

Aside from looking after the well-being of the town and its people, he also took a keen interest in archeology. Alongside the pots, baskets, tools, weapons, pipes, and snuff trays that he discovered buried under the dust and sand, he also exhumed several mummified bodies of Atacameños (people of Atacama). These were, until very recently, on display in the museum. However, understandable concerns were raised by the current Atacameño community - who only recently seem to have been given a voice - about the dignity of displaying the remains of their ancestors to gawping tourists.

Snuff tray

Whether right or not, the museum heeded the indigenous people's request and removed the bodies. However, now the central pit, which previously housed the mummies, has been hurriedly converted into a simulacrum of an archeological site, complete with tape measure, trowel, and safety glasses.

Empty pit

During our travels, I like to pick up unusual ingredients with which to cook. This can sometimes threaten to backfire - such as the poisonous beans in Thailand - but mostly ends in delicious results. We picked up some unusual-looking corn at the market the other day - larger than usual and mottled white and purple. After soaking the kernels overnight and observing no change, we went back and asked the friendly market stall holder for advice. From her gestures, more than her words, we understood that the corn was meant for popping. Unlike the usual variety, which turn themselves inside out with the force of the escaping steam, these kernels puff only slightly but made for a tasty snack.

Kernels: before and after

Trying to cook local dishes using produce at hand is sometimes a challenge. Chilean cuisine has not inspired me a great deal, porotos granados aside. However, this evening, K had the marvellous idea of stuffing tomatoes with quinoa (a grain of Andean origin, but still surprisingly expensive).

Stuffed tomatoes

The tomatoes exploded somewhat but, served alongside a ratatouille of vegetables, fried plantain and (of course) avocado, they made a filling and tasty meal of local ingredients.