Precolombino

Today we rose and ventured out to the Museo de Arte precolombino on the picturesque Plaza de las Nazarenas.

Museum courtyard

In a 15th century building, surrounding a pretty courtyard, the museum houses a small collection of artefacts from times before its own creation belonging to people inhabiting the coastal area of modern Peru, including tribes from the "formative period", the Chavín, Vicus, Virú, and Paracus, as well as their successors, the Nasca, Mochica, Chimú, Huari, and finally, the Inca.

Hefty gold Chimú earrings

I feared the collection would comprise yet another succession of pots, jars, bottles, and arrowheads from ancient civilisations, bearing bland descriptions of their materials and assumed date of manufacture. Happily, the selection and presentation had been made with an artist's eye to the aesthetic aspect of the pieces, and included considered and insightful descriptions of the merit (religious or customary) as well as the functional purpose of each item. Granted, some of the text was a little overwritten and highfalutin, threatening to alienate the audience that it tried to engage, but quotations from modern artists, such as Picasso and Gaugin, grounded the appreciation of the "antiquities" as art in addition to utilitarian objects. It was the description on the museum restaurant's menu took the real biscuit.

Remarkable Mochica pottery

Slightly out of the way of the town centre, part way up a hill leading to the Sacsayhuamán ruins, is a charming little garden restaurant attached to a museum of medicinal plants.

Quinoa croquettes and caramelised camote

At "D'gustos y preferencias", we enjoyed a view over the rooftops of Cusco as well as their set menu of the day, caramelised sweet potato and quinoa croquettes, followed by a cauliflower "broaster" with fried potatoes and a salad, dressed up with a passion fruit vinaigrette.

Cauli broaster

Back at home, I felt the urge to practise some of the yoga asanas. While this should be a daily routine, in reality it is not something I have done in earnest since we left Thailand and probably the last attempt was in the jungle retreat in Langkawi back in February. My excuses range from the weather (too hot or too cold) to space (not enough, too overlooked), but I finally got back to it this afternoon despite the very plausible get-out of the altitude in Cusco (too high).

At over 3,600m, any kind of physical exertion takes its toll, so yoga breathing after many months was difficult. Nevertheless, a quick run through of the basic postures was a tonic.

More of a tonic, but less virtuous I suspect, were the post-session beers that followed. The garden of our bungalow here is in fact the perfect tranquil space not only for yoga practice, but also for a drink in the sun.

Yet more Peruvian cervezas artesenales

I have become adept at sniffing out the locales that sell beers beyond the usual Cusqueña range, but was still surprised to see a selection of cervezas artesenales available at the excellently named "Pan...tástico" B&B and bakery on Carmen Bajo.

The Shaman IPA, while not as hoppy an ale as Barbarian's 174, was balanced and hid the whopping 8% abv well. Cumbres interesting take on a fruit-based pale ale incorporates passion fruit (maracuya) and physalis (aguaymanto) into the mix, hence the port-manteau "Maracumanto".