Santa Ana

Not a few hundred yards from where we are staying in Tambillo is the Inca Templo de la Luna (Temple of the Moon). Some adventurous tourists make the pilgrimage up the steep Inca path from town that leads to these ruins, which we pass every day in the opposite direction. As with many things on one's doorstep, we have neglected the temple, carved directly into a mound of rock protruding from the hillside. Today, we ventured inside, investigating the natural fissures that were refined by the Inca stonemasons for who-knows-what purpose.

Temple of the Moon and Ausangate

At midday, we had an appointment at the bootmaker for a pair of boots to K's design. The bootmaker had turned them out astonishingly quickly, although they were supposed to be ready yesterday evening. However, when we dropped by to pick them up last night, we found the usually empty little shop full of people, each perched on a stool and holding a bottle of Cusqueña. The owner apologised for the delay.

Having picked up the boots, we didn't even attempt to buck our established convention and segued immediately to Green Point for lunch. I had the set menu, which came with chicharron de champiñones (battered mushrooms to you and me), while K ordered á la carte and received an enormous and delicious-looking ensalada grillada that stretched the definition of the word 'salad'.

"Salad"

Today was apparently the Festividad de Santa Ana. It is notoriously hard to get reliable information on local festivals, especially religious festivities, many of which are literally moveable feasts or last for multiple days. When questioned, the people at the tourist information office seemed unaware of the calendar of events they advertised and were not especially forthcoming with details of the schedule. However, we decided to see what might happen at such an event. We wavered a little when we realised that the small Templo de Santa Ana is at the top of Cuesta de Santa Ana - one of the many steep roads leading out of Cusco's town centre that have helpful steps up each side owing to the sheer angle.

Cuesta Santa Ana

It was fortunate that we took a chance as, on surmounting the hill, we were greeted by a jubilant atmosphere and crowds of cusqueños tucking into plates of roast cuy, chicharron of pork, and other fried foodstuffs outside the church. They were also consuming a large amount of beer. The sacred nature of the festival, which focuses on a parade of an image of Santa Ana, said to be Mary's mother, carrying the baby Jesus, is apparently no impediment to the participants' inebriation. In fact, it seems traditional.

Dancing and masks at Santa Ana

Among the throng of onlookers were many people in costume and several bands, each processing into the tiny square in front of the church. Some wore full-face balaclavas and square lampshade-style hats and proceeded to whip each other in a display that was largely comic but nevertheless had the crowd gasping in vicarious pain.

The whipping dance

Having announced the arrival of yet more costumed and masked celebrators, the band peeled off to seek shade and a few beers. However, they could not rest long before the main event - the processing of the icons. An enormous effigy of Santa Ana carrying a child emerged from the church doors atop a solid wooden frame, which was hoisted by at least two dozen men down the steps and onto the street. This was shortly followed by a the beatific figure of Jesus Christ (as a man), and the two images were followed down the street by dancing troupes and marching bands.

Religious icons and, err... men dressed as gorillas

On arriving back in the main square, yet more dancing was taking place. This time, children and young adults were entertaining the crowds with street dance, presumably as part of the lead up to Peruvian independence day.