Skull Sand Beach

Settling into our new home and again getting used to not having to prepare breakfast for ourselves, we were waited on this morning with mushroom herb omelette. The herb in question looked like a large parsley leaf and was grown in the garden, called ulam raja. Literally meaning 'king herb' it had the bitterness of rocket and complemented the mixed fruit smoothie (no added sugar) and freshly ground Langkawi coffee.

The new residents, eager to explore the island in a few short days, rented a pair of scooters and set off after breakfast. With the luxury of time on our side, we aimed for one destination today and took a taxi to the north side of the island.

The main, most developed and popular beach is Pantai Cenang, where pantai means beach. It is there that you can jetski, parasail and banana boat to your heart's content. Avoiding this area for now, we aimed for the locals' favourite beach, Pantai Pasir Tengkorak.

Pantai Pasir Tengkorak

This is a delightful little bay, which is normally quiet but was busy with local people today, as it is the weekend. Many of the visitors were bathing fully clothed and having great fun in the water.

We ventured around the corner to a secluded and even smaller rock-strewn bay that was completely deserted.

Tengkorak is a beautiful bijou beach with natural shade. The view out across the border to the nearby Thai island of Ko Tarutao is particularly spectacular.

Pantai Pasir Tengkorak means Skull Sand Beach, which is apparently explained by Ko Tarutao's history as a prison island. Escaping prisoners were presumed killed in the shark-infested waters and their skulls washed up on Langkawi's shores.

The sea is no longer supposed to be home to sharks, so I took a dip. The water graduated from clear to emerald green and seemed shallow enough that prisoners could have waded between the islands.

From the beach it was a short walk to the stunning Temurun waterfalls.

Temurun waterfall

The top pool was cold, clear and refreshing. Local children were bravely climbing the rock face despite signs to the contrary and leaping into the water in a manner that suggested it was not their first time.

Our host was returning from a session at the nearby exclusive Datai resort and very kindly gave us a lift as he passed. This segued into a visit to the roving night market (pasar malam), which on Sundays takes place in Padang Matsirat.

Preparing jackfruit at the Sunday night market

The market was a feast for the senses. It was also initially slightly frustrating for vegetarians, as some delicious-looking stuffed roti (murtabak) came only in chicken or beef, and other offerings seemed to be meat on sticks and surimi (formed fish).

Mystery food

Thankfully with an expert guide we found the hidden treats and picked up spring rolls filled with taro and coated in chilli sauce and peanuts, a rice dish called nasi kerabu, and mee goreng (egg noodles fried in a soy sauce).

Nasi kerabu and spring rolls

The nasi kerabu was rice coloured blue using a kind of flower and mixed with salted egg, herbs, chilli, toasted coconut, and lime. It was the perfect combination of textures and flavours.

Dem bones

For dessert we enjoyed patongko and tau fu fa. Patongko are deep-fried doughnuts of Chinese origin but were sold with a Malaysian sweet peanut dipping sauce. Owing to their shape, they are apparently known in China as 'gwái's bones' after a famous Chinese traitor. Tau fu fa also involves Chinese silken tofu, but is served in a warm and rich syrup made from coconut sugar that is typical of Malaysia (gula melaka). This kind of fusion is typical here and is celebrated as the cultures mix.

After dinner our host excitedly exhorted us to lay out and watch the full moon. With a glass of red wine in our hands we watched the moonlight cast a rainbow in the surrounding cloud, which broke apart to reveal the pinpricks of light in the night sky.