Dead Woman's Pass

The second day of the Inca Trail is notorious, as it involves a steep, unrelenting climb of 1200m to an altitude that can induce sickness in some people. The top of the climb is known as Dead Woman's Pass.

Very sadly, K did not make it to experience this part of the hike as, soon after dinner last night, she admitted that she was beginning to "feel a little queasy". This queasiness transformed quickly into an all-night sickness, which had barely relented by morning. She made the tough decision to turn back - itself necessitating retracing yesterday's steps. She implored me to carry on with the hike and one of the guides accompanied her back to Ollantaytambo and the medical centre there. We should hopefully meet up again on Saturday at Machu Picchu itself.

After breakfast of porridge and pancakes at 5:30, we left shortly after the sun had risen around 6am.

Our ascent took us into a cloud forest, where we broke from the path of the Urubamba river to follow a tributary upstream, which flowed down the mountainside.

Ascending Dead Woman's Pass

The path was a gruelling set of rocky steps and dirt slopes, but rewarded us with spectacular views. We arrived at the highest point (4215m) around 10:30. This was the hardest part of the day - and arguably the whole hike - completed. We paused at the top and waited for the rest of the group, who were taking the climb at their own pace. Other groups arrived to the cheers of their teammates, and one in particular encouraged each other to "smash some rum" at the summit (purchased at the oddly well-stocked stall at the rest stop half way up). Our celebration was much calmer, and involved placing a stone that we had picked up at the foot of the mountain and carried with us since yesterday.

The saddle of Warmiwañusca at 4215m above msl

Unfortunately, one of the Norwegians had fallen sick and found the climb extremely difficult, but heroically shuffled his way to the top. Having all made the climb, the remainder of the day's hike involved a straight descent down a knee-shattering rock path to the campsite. We arrived around 12:30, just in time for lunch. The reason for the early start was to be able to take lunch at an altitude at which it would be more easily digestible.

Descending into clouds

Lunch was soup followed by fried rice, fried potato and slices of aubergine in a parsley sauce, with vegetables. A dessert of a small piece of apple pie demonstrated the chef's amazing ability to conjure anything fresh from his kitchen tent.

Paqamayo campsite

After lunch, there was no more hiking, just free time to relax and enjoy the stunning view that the terraced campsite gives onto. At 5pm, it was once again tea time, followed disconcertingly quickly by dinner. The evening meal was a simple and light assembly for ease of digestion at the altitude: soup, potatoes and vegetables. With another early start promised for tomorrow and a lack of light on the campsite, we all turned in shortly before 8pm. Thermals were certainly required, despite the sleeping bag graded down to -5°C. Our guide estimated that the temperature reached -2°C overnight.