Tipón and Andahuaylillas

The outskirts of Cusco soon fall away to reveal stunning hills and peaceful villages. We discovered the countryside to the east of the city this morning, as we boarded a bus bound for Tipón.

Tipón town from above

Just north of Tipón town, up in the hills, lies the archeological park protecting the Inca construction of terraces and aqueducts, channelling water from high up in the mountains.

Channelling the mountain spirits

The park is serene and peaceful, again demonstrating the harmony of Inca architecture with nature. A series of terraced steps is surrounded by geometric channels of water, apparently used in ceremonies, which originated from the apu - the sacred mountain.

Tipón terraces

We followed upstream and uphill, noting the vast distance covered by the water, and the commensurate effort required to build the stone aqueducts, but did not reach the source - a full day's hike away.

Incan aqueduct

A bus took us farther out towards the Urcos, stopping just short, in the village of Andahuaylillas.

Andahuaylillas main square

Here, in the geometric grid pattern favoured by the Spaniards, was a resettlement town, known as "pueblo de Indianas", whose purpose was to control the native population's output (their harvest) as well as their beliefs - to be blunt, indoctrination.

Church of St. Peter, Andahuaylillas

To this end, a large central plaza was fronted with a church, whose purpose was the Christianisation of the Andean people, but whose insides bear the marks of centuries of Andean influence on Christan iconography - the so-called mestizaje of cultures. Among the opulent interior of the church of St Peter are large murals of the Saint, a resplendent gold altar, as well as incongruous figurines wearing traditional Andean dress.

Our journey back to Cusco came courtesy of the same bus that had dropped us at Andahuaylillas, now making its return journey from Urcos. It was no less busy than when we had left it, and we only just squeezed into the door to join the other standing passengers.

The bus dropped us back on Avenida de la Cultura, so we took the opportunity to visit the nearby clinic to get K's ear looked at, which had been playing up for a few days. It turned out to be an infection, which required a round trip back to the clinic when we realised the prescribed antibiotics contained penicillin, to which K is allergic. In between shuttling back and forth, we managed to fit in a dinner at Green Point 2, which offers a set evening meal. We sat in a cosy gazebo made almost too warm by a gas heater and enjoyed their salad, Andean soup, followed by sautéed mushrooms and peppers with rice and chips(!), finishing with a diminutive bite of apple crumble.