Independence Day Peru

Today is the official day of independence during this period of Peru's fiestas patrias. Independence from the Spanish was won by Argentine José de San Martín and declared on this day in 1821. Throughout the month of July, the towns and cities of Peru are festooned with the red-and-white bicolour. However, much of today's celebrations are focused on the capital, Lima, with the continuing tradition of the presidential address.

As this was our last day in Cusco before leaving Peru, we spent the morning packing up the items that we have managed to spread all over the bungalow we have been renting and which, miraculously, seem to fit back into our bags. Having cleaned and tidied away much of the evidence of our month-long stay, we walked into town for the last time to see what independence day in Cusco would look like.

Viewed from above on the downhill path, the city seemed eerily quiet. Normally there is some noise, whether it be cheers from the crowds at the football stadium, or a parade in the main square, but I imagine today arriving into empty streets with shuttered shops. Indeed, many of the small tiendas in upper San Blas were closed up for the feriado, but as we approached the centre of town, we were greeted by the same scene of tourists clammering for a photo in front of the infamous "twelve-angle stone" or with a cute lamb carried by a lady in traditional dress, or being propositioned by the army of ladies offering "masajes".

The 12-angle stone: who can fathom its power?

Despite the central shops, bars, and restaurants doing the same amount of trade as any other day, the Plaza de Armas remained resolutely free of dancing, parades, or music. As with many 'national days' in countries we have visited, celebrations tend to precede the official date, while the holiday itself is time to recover or, in the most extreme case of Bali's Nyepi, a day of absolute, enforced silence following the preceding day's Ogo Ogo festivities. This should come as little surprise, as New Year in many countries is celebrated fervently on its eve, while a day of rest follows.

Just in case celebrations spontaneously kicked off in the square - as is their wont - we took up position at Papacho's overlooking the potential proceedings. While the darkened, neon-lit burger joint served up temping platters of fried and grilled dishes, their tempting aromas wafting in our direction, we were saving ourselves for a final crack at Green Point's menu. We settled, instead, on a frothing glass of Cusqueña (or two) out of a kind of vicarious patriotism. In actual fact, the wheat (trigo) and dark (negra) versions of the local beer are both inoffensively quaffable.

With no apparent show forthcoming on the square, we repaired happily to our second home in Cusco, Green Point. After yesterday's vain hunt for the elusive Peruvian delicacy, causa - a layered potato, avocado, and chicken dush - in vegetarian form, we stumbled upon it hidden in plain sight, albeit under the name "papas enrolladas", on Green Point's menu. The presentation was slightly different, with the yellow, lime and ají amarillo-seasoned potato rolled around the filling and wrapped in thinly sliced cucumber, but its was unmistakably the same dish.

Causita

Sadly, after the build-up, the causita bites were overshadowed by the other appetiser, both in presentation and taste, of vegan temaki sushi cones. Presented in a wooden stand, which could well have been plucked from a chemistry lab, the nori rolls reminded us just how much we like and miss Asian cuisine.

Temaki

How to follow these starters? With another modern classic, lomo saltado, which fuses the Andean penchant for rice, potatoes and meat (in this case strips of seitan), with the Chinese stir-fry style of cooking and soy sauce seasoning. The saltado (meaning sautéed) was served in the pan, with the 'meat', onions and peppers soaking in the soy broth, while the fried potatoes were layered on top. With a Green Point 'house' salad on the side, featuring avocado and smoked aubergine (berenjena ahumada) 'bruschetta', conspired to defeat us, but meant that we had plenty to box up and take away for supper.

Green Point house salad

As the sun set we walked home, watching marching bands distribute themselves among the local churches. It seems that festivities are not centralised on these days; rather, each community finds its own way to celebrate.

He marched them up to the top of the hill...

The sun sets on independence day